Milan Darling, Milan!

On my first visit to vivacious fashion capital Milan, Jade and I had the fortunate pleasure of arriving to pouring rain in the decidedly more suspicious evening light suffering an exhaustion that is known all too well by long haul travellers. We had also just come from a disappointing experience in Pisa (A word to the wise, use a map to find the leaning tower or you might end up wandering the streets of this small town lost and a bit stressed, consequently leaving without having actually seen said tower). This combination is never a good one when discovering a city for the first time... Nor any subsequent time after that really... But fortunately by this stage our sheer laziness had taught us that it was easiest to stay at hotels around the main train station and we only had to schlep our bags (numbering five by this stage thanks to Jade's penchant for shopping) a short way.

This time around was my second visit and thankfully the weather upon arrival was lovely and mild. In my mind, because I had graced the pavement of this fair city once already, I was a seasoned Milano expert (insert sarcastic rolling of the eyes) so I boldly traipsed mapless through the streets, suitcase tumbling begrudgingly behind. To be fair I did basically know my way around the city and I was feeling quite well versed in the Italian way of life at this point, so my confidence was not all together misplaced. Once again our chosen accommodation was as near to the beautiful station as I could get so that there was minimal lugging. Side note here, The main station of Milano Centrale is actually quite magnificent to look at and I suggest you take time to look back as you traverse to your hotel, you might even like to take a picture or two (weather permitting).

My visit consisted of only mild sightseeing and focused more on activities like eating, drinking and shopping, with only a fleeting visit to La Scala and Il Duomo mixed in for cultural good measure. We didn't catch the Last Supper as it was completely booked out and we hadn't had the forethought to book this earlier in the week. But, perhaps most importantly, I did manage to catch a panzerotti at my favourite Milanese panzerotti house Luini's (let's be honest it's the only one I've been too, But it is really good)... This leads me too...

Shanwah's tasty tip: Luini's is a small delicatessen style eatery specialising in what is possibly Milan's best cultural export... Panzerotti! These flavorsome morsels are small half moon shaped savory pastries filled with various forms of deliciousness... Imagine a calzone, now make it smaller and tastier! Although Panzerotti aren't strictly Milanese, Luini's has made such an impact that they've been somewhat adopted as such. I actually insist (unless dairy or gluten aren't your friends) that you drop in for a visit and try this traditional fare, go for the cheese and tomato version to begin with and then let loose on one of the other countless taste sensations!



The stunning Gallerie Vittorio Emanuele II! The world's oldest shopping mall and possibly the prettiest too! One entrance leads into Milan's main Piazza and Il Duomo, one to La Scala Opera house and another to Luini's Panzerotti! Make sure to take a spin on the mosaic bull's testicles in the centre of the mall for luck!

Milan is definitely the fashion capital of the world, and it is quite evident from first glance that it is very different to other Italian cities, but I don't think people actually realise how interesting a city it really is. Those who do visit tend to only stay long enough to see the Last Supper or to relieve themselves of a few Euro at the shopping streets before disappearing to Florence or Rome, upsettingly I think most people feel it is void of traditional Italian culture and as a result it is left off most Italian itineraries. What we need to remember is that the cultural city of Milano was here long before the skyscrapers and there are plenty of enriching experiences smattering the Milanese sidewalk. I have decided to take some time to prove to the naysayers that there is much more to see and experience in Milano... so heres what I'm going to do! With a bit of research and some fortunate fieldwork, I am creating a sightseeing playlist that I think showcases some of the great things Milan has to offer in a short three night stay (come on you can handle at least three nights right!?)...

So stay tuned...

A note on train travel...

In all honesty I didn't knowledgeably choose train travel as my preferred method of transportation around Europe. Instead it came about as a direct result of my sheer ignorance of budget airline carriers and the shiny advertisements for Eurail passes (they promised maps and fancy looking tickets okay!). Despite not having researched it fully the first time around, let me tell you now that it is certainly not a bad thing. I have since discovered that although train travel can be a bit arduous and not overly comfortable, it is decidedly more pleasant to spend 5 hours on a high speed train than 2 hours traveling super economy in a flying tin can.

Traveling by rail allows you time to read, write, play a few games of solitaire or poker and best of all it allows you the freedom to get up and stretch your legs whenever you want! Air pressure ear pops are limited to trains that pass through tunnels or climb up mountains, the seats are bigger and usually less cramped plus you get to see some absolutely amazing scenery along the way.

If you get the right combination of deals (Eurail, railpass etc) you can also very easily make train travel the most cost effective solution for your grand tour. Investigate how many times you will be traveling within one country, how often will you be using international rail services, how close are the stations to your hotel, how frequent are the trains? You can use these questions to ascertain whether or not a rail pass is best for you or if its better for you to buy your own point to point tickets.

I talk about this now because it was at this point of my journey that our painfully disrupted train trip from Nice to Milan, involving faulty train carriages, canceled seat reservations and angry Italian mothers, led to a chance meeting with two lovely ladies, a deck of cards and a train trip of raucous card games and laughter. It reminded me of how much fun I have had on my train trips. What it boils down to is simple, you have nowhere else to be and you can't help what time you arrive, so you can just sit back and enjoy the journey (Remind me to tell you about some of my ...Err... less relaxing train journey's sometime).

Two final points...

Buying your tickets in advance through the local rail company (Trenitalia in Italy, TGV in France, Renfe in Spain or Deutsche Bahn in Germany etc) is usually cheaper than leaving it until the last minute or going through a third party provider. So if you have the nouse I suggest you attempt it yourself.

Be aware of your alternatives and try not to hinge your entire journey on one train leg being on time. You are well aware of how the trains in your home town are frequently delayed, so be aware that it is the same in the new city you are visiting and it is no one else's fault but your own that you only left yourself 10 minutes to change trains.

Train travel around Europe is by far the most comfortable and satisfying way to get from amazing A to beautiful B! (Yep I came up with that one all by myself) and who knows, you might end up sitting opposite a new friend*.



*Disclaimer: New friends are not guaranteed. I take no responsibility if you are seated next to a... less than desirable... train buddy. If you are seated next to an undesirable, I suggest you swiftly occupy whichever senses are being assaulted (I have been known to shove my nose in a bottle of orange juice to achieve this).

Boats, beaches and babes!

Welcome to the French Riviera! This beautiful cluster of unique cities and towns on the sunny south coast of France has recently decided to become a regular stop over on my (increasingly frequent) trips to Italy. This is partly because it provides me with more than a fleeting glance at the ocean and partly because it is actually a pretty long trek from Paris to Rome. On this particular visit I was especially excited because it was the fortunate location of a much anticipated rendezvous with my good friend Nikki!

Right! Lets start with the aptly named city of Nice. This town reeks of that old school 1920's charm that throws your imagination back to the glitzy upper class soirées of yesteryear! The promenade showcases some fantastic examples of delicately aging architectural beauty from that era so I highly recommend a leisurely late afternoon stroll (in the warmer months of course) along the promenade. I also advise this for those who appreciate the rhythmic crash of waves and the tangy scent of ocean air whilst marveling at the sparkling art deco gems that puncture the seafront. Once you are done strolling, a dip in the sea never goes amiss. Nice's famed pebble beach will be jam packed in the heat of a summers day but if you can steal yourself a spot on the rocks then it is worth the hassle. The pebble beach was certainly an adjustment for me (Australians are notoriously snobby when it comes to beaches and I am no exception) but the sound of water washing against pebbles was surprisingly relaxing... Even if it did take a few attempts to get comfortable on the rocks. If a leisurely stroll or tanning session on the beach aren't you're thing, then you can always spend your Euros on the Avenue Jean Médecin. With a lovely collection of high street labels and a Galeries Lafayette, my shopping needs were all satisfied. The seaside is always a big draw card for me so Nice will always have this going for it... Even if there is a lack of sand.



The "Conversation à Nice" statues that line the Espace Massena lighting up at night to guide people on their shopping adventures!

Day tripping to Monaco is probably one of the easiest and touristically (is that a word) rewarding day trips I have ever done! A short (barely half an hour) train trip along the stunning coastline from Nice and you are in the quirky Principality of Monaco. This is a whole different country so make sure to add it to your count (because everyone will ask how many countries you went to and you want to impress). Despite being such a small country it really packs a tourist punch! A visit to the Prince's palace is a must If only to add to your photo album of stunning vista views and uniformed guards ceremoniously changing shifts. Next on the "to see" list is Monte Carlo Casino. Having experienced the intense neon chaos of Las Vegas casinos, I expected something just as affronting when I entered Monte Carlo Casino. What I found instead was an exquisitely crafted building with tall ceilings and elaborate furnishings. The shiny slot machines that line the walls and alcoves provided some low level sparkle but essentially it is the building that grabs you by the face and spins you around in gawping circles. I found that all the modern gambling paraphernalia looked out of place in the casino despite the fact that this was the building's original purpose. Even if I did feel a little classless wearing flip flops and a singlet, I found the experience to be incredibly exciting... I was even excited by my inevitable €20 loss to the one armed bandits.

Although Monaco is small enough to walk around, keep in mind that it is very hilly (avoid learning this on a stinking hot summers afternoon) and there is no metro system to speak of so confusing buses are your only real public transport option. To avoid the pain of near vertical footpaths, I definitely recommend that you utilise the tourist bus. An adult ticket costs €18 which is on the more pricey end of the cost spectrum, but consider the time and energy that would be consumed if you walked from steep incline A to painful hill B... (Yes this is my lazy side talking). The small open top bus takes you to all the big ticket destinations including the Monte Carlo casino, Place du Palais, Musée Océanographique and the Jardin Japonais, with the added bonus of a tour guide giving you fun facts about the city and helpfully pointing your camera towards things you didn't even know were important (sort of).



The mist rolling in over the cliffs onto an otherwise sunny Monaco, the main town of Monaco and the beautiful gardens in front of the Monte Carlo casino.

St Tropez is a strange place... It is essentially a smaller, more expensive version of Nice... Boats, shopping (strictly window if you have any type of budget) and a surprisingly small amount of decent eateries in the lower end of the budget are a plenty in this town. St Tropez is definitely a place to visit when you aren't still struggling from your shopping blowout in Las Vegas and New York. If I'm honest I didn't find a lot to do in St Tropez this time around so I probably can't comment on it from a tourist perspective... But it certainly provided a lovely backdrop for my holiday hangout with the beautiful Nikki and a great location for the shooting of the girls' music video (featured below).



The streets of St Tropez filled with designer labels, keen shoppers and art aficionados... Also boats...

An extended trip to France should include a trip to the sunny southern city of Nice... And conversely, any trip to Nice should include a day trip to Monaco! St Tropez and Cannes are of course optional... But not advisable if you are on a budget.

Shanwah's lovely links:
Check out the babes I mentioned earlier (and my filming technique) in St Tropez!

Hola! Hablas Español?!

Okay so I am going to sound like a complete idiot here... But I have to be honest with you. Growing up I had always imagined that Spain was somewhat of a third world country full of crime and poverty. Blame it on my lack of attention in geography classes, poor representation in the Australian media or my childlike ignorance... but I had always imagined a dusty desert landscape filled with a ramshackle collection of cheaply made buildings strung together by washing lines and dodgy power poles. How wrong I was...

Spain was a destination that I had wanted to visit on my first trip to Europe but, unfortunately, it was one of the first places to get the cut due to its awkward placement in our timeline and the poor train connectivity into the country. The poor Spaniards almost got cut a second time but I fought vehemently to keep tapas in the mix and rejig the schedule so that we had a grand four days in the country... This meant that we got to visit one city...And the lucky city was... (insert drum roll) BARCELONA!

If we take into account my earlier musings on my preconceived notions of Spain you can understand that when we arrived in Barcelona I was suitably impressed! The city is a thriving metropolis with a sturdy underground system and a good (if sliding) infrastructure of services. The streets are full of people and the tourists almost outnumber the locals. There is a veritable bounty of attractions (most of them architectural), shopping opportunities and eateries! To top it off the weather is usually stunning. Barcelona swiftly shot its way up my list of favorite places!

When we talk about Barcelona, I would be remise to ignore its fantastic collection of architectural gems! Spain was the home and principal work place of the famed Neo Gothic/Modernist Architect Antoni Gaudi, whose creative gems lie scattered across the lands. To experience Gaudi's work first hand we made our way through the beautiful Passeig de Grácia to the popular Casa Batlo. Feeling suitably like I was inspecting an open home, I partook in the Audio Guide (because let's face it, I know naught about architecture) and was soon rolling through the dragons innards in an upward spiral. The building is stunning and its references to nature and the natural world made it somewhat relaxing, despite being a tourist destination heaving with visitors. What impressed the most was the beautiful views once you reached the top. It might not be the highest viewing platform in Barcelona, but it was certainly the most interesting journey up.



The stunning parts that make Casa Battlo a magnificent whole. Such a fantastic work of art.

Barcelona's most celebrated skyline contribution is most certainly the unbelievable Sagrada Familia. This towering creature is probably the most intriguing house of worship I have ever visited. First things first, visit this attraction on a weekday and early in the morning. The line gets huge and if you are there in summer you will spend most of your time queuing in the sun with a swarm of gypsies and "entrepreneurs" trying to sell you crap. The cathedral itself is a sight to behold, the audio guide will explain the entire building at an intense level of depth, but it is just as rewarding to wander around aimlessly and take in the grandiosity of the structure. The walls and doors are covered in unusual puzzles and riddles full of symbolism, the towers are adorned with elaborate stonework and the stained glass windows let in some absolutely magical light. Probably one of the most extraordinary parts of the cathedral is the fantastic views from the towers. You can't go up all the towers but the ones you can scale offer extraordinary, if a little disconcerting, views of the city and some up close and personal studies of the tower detailing. Extraordinary to think that this amazing piece of history is being built right in front of our eyes!



An example of one of the unique riddles found at La Sagrada Familia, all the columns and rows add up to 33 (the age Jesus was at his death). One of the elementally themed stained glass windows lets in a shock of beautifully coloured light. The branches of the pine tree that perches high above the cathedral doors on the "Nativity Facade".

The city of Barcelona owes a great deal of its current infrastructure to the Olympics and its inevitable revitalisation of the city in 1992. As an Australian I have an innate interest in sport, even if only very mildly, and my favourite sporting event is certainly the Olympics! This inevitably ended up with me wanting to pay homage to Barcelona's bygone Olympic era. I must say that having now visited the site, a visit to the city would be a bust if you didn't spend some time admiring the Olympic arena on Mont Juic. All the tourist buses go there and you can even catch a ride on the cable car if you want some supreme views over the city! The arena and surrounds are a surreal ghost town of aging athleticism and former glory. Giant pillars lining the promenade show a pathway that would have once been teeming with excited revelers for a brief few months in 1992. Nowadays the area has become a well maintained wasteland awkwardly punctured by the odd tourist taking jumping photos by the giant water features. Despite this, or perhaps because of it, the Olympic park is certainly a breathtaking place worth spending some time at. While you are up there I suggest you take a quick look at the fantastic pools used for the olympic diving events. The pools have some of the most amazing views over the city! If you cant make it to Barcelona just watch aforementioned pools draped in scantily clad dancers in Kylie Minogue's music video for "Slow".



You can see the beautiful Olympic flame cauldron in detail and sitting perilously close to spectator seats under the clock. The telecommunications tower reigns supreme on the hill whilst the giant columns line your path to victory... Well they line your path to the stadium anyway...

Shanwah's tasty tip: One thing I missed out on when I was in Barcelona was traditional food. Now I'm no stranger to Spanish cuisine, but it is always a pleasing experience to indulge in a country's traditional fare whilst you are actually in said country. My biggest tip is to search out some grub at a small family run establishment (I am not telling you something new here I know) and this is true of all counties. The difference here is that because Barcelona has a large tourist population, it has a high concentration of bad eats in easy to find locations. I suspect that once you feel comfortable with exploring local side streets in the evening hours (please be aware of where you are and how common muggings are in this country) you will be presented with a veritable smorgasbord of tasty treats at a reasonable price.

Shanwah's tipsy tip: I may not have had the chance to explore Spain's culinary offerings, but I certainly managed to find an amazing bar! The story goes like this... After a month and a bit of traveling I decided that a massage was in order (a perfect way to revive you after lugging around your belongings for a month or two). Some intense googling and an email or two later, I secured a well priced rub down at a reputable nearby establishment (I can only say wonderful things about the massages we received there). The only catch was that there was only two consecutive appointments available... So Ross took the first appointment and I took the second. I bet you are wondering "When is he getting to the bit about the booze!" Don't worry it's coming... Whilst sorting out the massages, I took the liberty of asking our masseuse Nunu if there was anywhere to fill my time while I waited. Nunu kindly suggested a small cafe and a nearby bar. Well as it was stinking and I had no interest in a hot beverage, I chose the bar. The establishment in question was actually a bar/museum/brewery just a few doors away called Moritz. The brewery was set up here in 1864 and was used for more than a century until production moved elsewhere and was eventually shut down altogether. This particular piece of the Moritz story was revitalised in 2004 and has been turned into an absolutely amazing place to explore, learn and sample some fine Spanish beer! While I was there I was served up some fantastic in house brews and spent the remainder of the time exploring their beautiful maze of beer inspired art installations and glass fronted brewing facilities. If you do drop in, I recommend a visit to the bathrooms as the trip there is worth it.



The amazingness that is the Moritz brewery!

My piece of advice for Barcelona, and Spain in general, is to ensure it doesn't get cut from your itinerary! The train connections may be a bit ragged and the reputation can be a bit worse for wear, but the destination is well worth the journey! Just be sensible about your surroundings.

Shanwah's lovely links:
For a fabulous (and well priced) massage whilst in Barcelona visit Nunu at The Vital Touch

Click for more information about Moritz... This may require translation...

Just because we love Kylie...

London and Paris... A drive by

We arrived into London Heathrow feeling refreshed after our luxurious premium economy upgrade (a little treat we added for ourselves when we booked our flights) and excited for the start of the European leg of our journey. Whilst our time in London was only short, it essentially served to split our holiday into two parts. The most obvious reason for splitting our trip like this is to work off the uncomfortable jet lag that would inevitably rear it's ugly head as a result of going backwards in time from America to England (If I'm completely honest we were still feeling the effects of the Australia to America flight as well). Aside from the necessity of recovering in a place that was comfortable and familiar, we used our time in London to be normal... This involved a night on the town with friends, several aimless wanderings through the city, a visit to the cinema and some shopping. I find that this simple act of normalcy (by which I mean "not being a tourist") serves to re-calibrate your senses giving you renewed vigor with which to take on the next leg of your journey. On top of all this our stop over afforded us the luxury of dumping a combined 15kg of luggage weight on my dear friend Daniel (Thaaaaaaaanks Daniel!)

In order to stagger the train journey to our next major destination (Spain), we decided that we would include another short stopover in Paris. Now I am the first person to preach positive thinking and the old "give it a red hot go" philosophy when it comes to visiting a new city, but I am also the first to tell people that Paris is not always the beautiful city of love that every one makes it out to be. Paris is the sort of city that can sometimes take a few tries to get right... After two visits, I myself am still trying... But I have faith that I will have Paris down to a fine art by the time I return!



The beautiful Pont de l'Archevêché adorned with hundreds of thousands of "Love Locks" declaring undying commitment between lovers. One of the growing (albeit slowly) collection of things I like about Paris.

Shanwah's tasty tip: I am cheating a little here because I discovered this tasty tip during my last visit to the city of lights with Jade and Ross. On our first adventure to Paris, we stayed in a teeny tiny apartment in the very centre of The city. This fantastic location afforded us the ability to wander to many a tourist destination with ease and get to the Louvre early enough to avoid the lines... It was also next door to a quant little Chinese restaurant. The "Palais Royal Hong Kong" seemed the logical choice when we couldn't be bothered to walk to a traditional French restaurant (it was also a great place to eat while waiting for the laundry as there was a laundromat next door) and the price was definitely right for the money conscious travelers that we were. The French/Oriental gem served up some fantastic Chinese specialties full of flavor and much needed greenery...not to mention that the service had us tipping generously!

A note tourist traps...

I want to take this opportunity to talk about the controversial topic of tourist traps. There is an unavoidable downside to discussing your holiday plans with someone else, it seems that as soon as you mention travel they instantly become an expert on the destination at hand. The self righteous ones will tell you to avoid all the tourist traps and popular destinations because a "real" traveler should seek out a unique experience at every possible chance! At the same time your easily entertained friends will spend all their time trying to convince you to ensure you see every attraction mentioned in the Lonely Planet top ten. My advice (because I am obviously the final word in travel *sarcasm*) is to do a comfortable mixture. Tourist traps are necessary and there is no way around it! Your first trip to Paris would be a bust if you didn't see the Eiffel tower, but that doesn't mean you have to visit it every time you go to Paris. The biggest downside to tourist traps is the crowds of people trying to do exactly the same thing as you. I think that the two most successful ways to ensure you don't get frustrated with the crowds and have the entire experience ruin the whole city for you (don't even talk to me about Pisa) is firstly lower your expectations. The Statue of Liberty is much smaller than you think and Hollywood is a lot less glamourous so if you hype it up you will most probably be disappointed (I sound like a killjoy but it is human nature to try and make things look better than they actually are so if you arrive with lower expectations you will appreciate things more). Secondly, you need to research! It really makes a difference if you research things like; the best time to visit, the best place to buy tickets (avoiding queues always makes me happier), your favourite way to deal with rude people (I always enjoy doing a little dance to amuse myself while waiting for Mr Tubby McLinecutter to finish taking up my space) and the best way to have your own unique experience because essentially these sights are what you make them. Now go forth and unashamedly be a massive tourist, you can even take tacky perspective photos... I know I do.

Has anyone seen my heart? I seem to have left it somewhere...

Exhausted! That is how we felt upon arrival in San Francisco. New York had left us drained and we lacked the enthusiasm needed to tackle the initial arrival. Keep in mind that we had just said goodbye to some close friends and spent the last few hours dealing with JFK International Airport and a flight that sent us backwards in time. Mix this with the joyous realisation that your hotel is a 20 minute walk from the nearest BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) and you are in one of the hilliest city centres in the world... Needless to say, the sight of our hotel as we rounded the last corner was sweet indeed. Our hotel was old school fancy with a big bathroom and two double beds (one for suitcases and one for sleeping) so once we were showered, rehydrated and rested we began to get excited!

Alcatraz was quite literally our first port of call as I had booked our tickets for the very same day we arrived. We had decided on the night time tour for the extra creepiness and this meant that there was plenty of time for a tasty dinner by the pier before we set sail. The tour included a 20 minute introduction to the island by one of the local guides and a little booklet with some handy information (and a valuable map as well). From there you can do as you please! There is an Audioguide tour, several unique presentations at various locations around the island, unique areas of the prison (not available to the day trippers) are opened especially for the night tour and there are
information boards all over the place if you just want to wander aimlessly. We took in the Audioguide tour and caught a fascinating presentation about the daily life in the prison as well as the events that took place during the great escape and the battle of Alcatraz. After this we wandered around while the rest of the tour was watching a short documentary. This wandering afforded us the opportunity to get a real sense of the despair that the prisoners must have felt by being so close to the city but so very far away. San Francisco itself is really very visible from the island and we learnt that inmates could hear the sounds of revelers and party goers on quiet nights and especially on festive New Years Eve.



Alcatraz has the uncanny ability to look scary, lonely, beautiful, exciting and depressing all at the same time.

Handy Shanwah Hint: Ensure you book tickets to Alcatraz in advance. The official (and best) tour fills very quickly and will quite often be sold out weeks in advance during the high seasons. If you go with "Alcatraz Cruises" You get several worthy options of tours that offer different experiences. I highly suggest doing one of the more inclusive (and yes, more expensive) tours because there really is so much to see and this place really is super unique! Second to this I recommend that you get to the pier a bit early if you want a seat on the ferry as it is first in best dressed and the line fills up quickly. My final piece of Alcatraz advice is to visit the gift shop on the island, there are some fantastically unique gifts and souvenirs here.

Now maybe it's because I grew up in the beautiful city of Melbourne, which boasts the largest tram network in the world, but I was incredibly taken by the streetcars (trams) of San Francisco! The city has a very hodge podge collection of public transport options (overground train, underground train, cable cars, streetcars, buses, trolley buses and ferries) and as such there isn't a very extensive streetcar network. Despite not being very extensive, the streetcar network is certainly beautiful! The fleet consists of over 45 vehicles taken from 30 cities around the world (including two bad boys from Australia) and painted in their original livery! This means that almost every streetcar you see is different to the last and it is like a whole new experience every time you ride!... Okay so I realise that I have a small amount of fanaticism when it comes to trams and that it may not be as exciting for everyone else as it is for me... but it is definitely a great way to see the city because these streetcars hit most of the best tourist destinations!



My little tribute to the San Fransisco Streetcar! These little gems carried me on some fantastic journeys around the city and look fantastic at the same time!

tasty tip: So I am going to unapologetically spend the next paragraph recommending another American chain restaurant called "The Cheesecake Factory". I realise that most people think that chain restaurants are a mortal sin and I have had my share of arrogant ranting travellers telling me... "you should be sampling the unique local cuisine at every possible opportunity!". But considering the amount of time you spend sightseeing and wandering the city, I think it is just as valuable (if not more so) to recommend places that will be easily available wherever you are... This way you can avoid eating McDonald's every time you need a quick meal. Now that I have justified my actions, lets talk about the Cheesecake Factory! Ross and I didn't discover this US culinary gem until San Francisco offered us one perched atop Macy's with fabulous views over Union Square. For me the decision was made purely for the photographic value and food was a happy byproduct. Upon arrival we were seated next to the railing under some sun umbrellas with heat lamps (a necessary, if odd, combination in sunny/foggy San Francisco) and, as promised, the views had me snapping away. The surprise came when we were handed our lunch menus... And when I say 'menu', I actually mean 20 page tome... Full to the brim with a massive array of starters, drinks, salads, soups, steaks, and desserts In as many combinations as you could ever want. The prices are reasonable (if anything they are a touch higher than general American prices) but the meal sizes are grand! Ross and I both ordered salads that I swear involved an entire lettuce and chicken each. The staff are attentive and the cheesecake is amazing (if you are a sweet tooth then dessert will be the hardest decision you will make all week). The drinks are mixed by proper bar staff and come in more varieties than you need. I suppose the point I am trying to push here is variety... The Cheesecake Factory is by far the most well stocked good value food chain that I have come across that doesn't compromise on taste (a risk you take when dining at a restaurant that is a jack of all trades and master of none).

On one of our hop on hop off tours, we learnt about some Japanese Gardens that where located in the golden gate park. Both the park and the gardens piqued Ross' interest so we paid a visit to the park hoping that we could enjoy the greenery and also fulfill a year long desire to ride a Segway. Unfortunately the Segway hire store was impossible to find and we had since learnt that you couldn't take the Segway into the Japanese gardens... Who knew?... Regardless we had no choice but to walk around the park like chumps! This aside, the park is quite nice! It lacks the structure and maintenance of Central Park but the flip side to this is that it comes off more natural. The Japanese Gardens themselves are beautiful and I can see that it would be easy to spend hours just relaxing, sipping tea and enjoying the structured zen that that is prolific in this type of environment. Stunning Japanese structures sit comfortably amongst meticulously cared for shrubbery and trickling streams with stepping stones that transport you from element to element. Koi inhabit the streams while squirrels scuttle around the shrubs and trees looking adorable. Despite the relatively large size of the gardens, the area was very crowded and I feel we would have had a much more enjoyable experience if we had visited at a quieter time. My advice here would be to drop in off peak and spend some time really relaxing... If this isn't possible then drop in anyway, it is pretty enough to warrant your time.



The Japanese Tea Gardens in all their beauty! The buildings and statues really become part of the landscape rather than fighting it for attention.

When one talks about San Fransisco it is hard not to mention the fantastic architecture that the city is famous for! The city is absolutely swimming in beautiful Victorian and Edwardian townhouses that line the streets like rows of colourful dresses in a shop window. These "painted ladies", as they are known locally, not only make for extremely pleasant viewing when you are attempting to scale one of the city's many... many hills, but they also offer a beautiful window into San Francisco's past.



A few examples of the "painted ladies" that fill the city with beautiful colour! These beauties are a photographers dream!

Handy Shanwah hint: Keep an eye on the San Franciscan weather and bring along those trusty blue jeans. San Francisco is famous for many things, however the most noticeable to the summer traveller will be the bitterly cold fog that engulfs the city at seemingly sporadic times of the day. Unlike its other west coast counterparts further south where summer means lots of sun, San Francisco has the unique position of being surrounded on three sides by water meaning that its temperature is heavily influenced by the Pacific Ocean. When the warmer Pacific Ocean winds hit the cold California Current BOOM... we have fog... Science aside, this essentially this means that during summer months San Fransisco is actually at its foggiest. So just keep in mind that whilst you may have spent an entire week in LA clad in nought but shorts and a tee, you will definitely need jeans and a long sleeve handy when you drop into San Fran.

On our last day in foggy San Francisco we treated ourselves to a much needed sleep in and then proceeded to spend the afternoon casually strolling around Fisherman's Wharf taking in the sights, sounds, people and places of this beautiful city. Nestled amongst the wharfs and fish mongers is the amazing Musee Mecanique. This place is a fantastic way to waste some money! The museum is essentially a fully operational gaming arcade full of old and new game machines left over from the days of carnivals and video arcades. All the machines are operational and most only need a quarter to keep you entertained. Here you can get your fortune read by Zoltar, arm wrestle with a Mexican wrestler (the same one used by Anne Hathaway and Julie Andrews in the movie "The Princess Diaries"), watch an old school flip scene, test your sex appeal and love compatibility or play some classic pinball. For me the most exciting part was at the gift shop (essentially a vending machine) which contained a flip book that features a copy of all the photo strips that have been left behind by visitors during the last 20 or so years. A very unique souvenir from a very unique museum in a very unique city!


A girl watching a tawdry antique flip show, Ross and I testing our love personalities and Ross getting his palm read (this doubled as a lovely hand massage) all at Musee Mecanique!

The words of that cheesy Tony Bennett song now best describe my feelings for this beautiful city...

...The loveliness of Paris seems somehow sadly gay
The glory that was Rome is of another day
I've been terribly alone and forgotten in Manhattan
I'm going home to my city by the Bay

I left my heart in San Francisco
High on a hill, it calls to me
To be where little cable cars climb halfway to the stars
The morning fog may chill the air, I don't care

My love waits there in San Francisco
Above the blue and windy sea
When I come home to you, San Francisco
Your golden sun will shine for me...